Wines

The domaine’s fresh, textbook Aligoté comes from vines in Morey-Saint-Denis: 70% from a 60-year-old planting in the lieu-dit Les Aires, and 30% from four tiny plots nearby. Vinified and aged in stainless steel on its fine lees for just shy of a year, it shows a satisfying old-vines plumpness beneath its clean, bright acidity and marked floral elements.

From a small (less than ¼ hectare parcel) in the lieu-dit of “En la Verde” in Marsannay; a plot that is a mix of clay and limestone; frequently exposed to cool winds coming from the woods above the village, the vines see large swings in temperature during the growing season which re-enforce the dominant minerality of this wine; barrel-fermented and aged.

Benoit planted 0.15 hectares worth of Chardonnay in the Morey-Saint-Denis vineyards Clos Solon and Les Seuvrees between 2007 and 2011 in order to be able to produce an additional white wine. Fermented and aged entirely in barrels but with none new, it displays the broad-shouldered character and rich body typical of the seldom-encountered white wines of the Côte de Nuits, with notes of ripe apple and almond, and admirable concentration.

This is a traditional blend of 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Gamay, with the two cépages harvested and vinified separately before assemblage. Elevage takes place entirely in steel tank, and the fruit is sourced from three parcels in Morey-Saint-Denis. It is light, fresh, and easy to drink, as is to be expected from a pleasant Passetoutgrains.

From a small plot (1/5 hectare) of younger vines on the northern end of Morey-Saint-Denis, across the RN74 from Clos de Ormes, this displays classic red and black Pinot fruit and a cleansing, savory finish.

The parcel of vines, which Domaine Lignier has been cultivating since 2003, is located north of the village of Marsannay, in a location known as “En La Verde”, facing directly east. This very broad valley has brought a lot of stones to the clay-limestone soil, making it well-draining, which is excellent for grape-growing. The valley also brings in a lot of wind, creating a healthy climate for the grapes. Raised 18 months in used barrels, this wine is fruity with a pleasant touch of animal notes.

Georges Lignier’s 1.8 hectares worth of villages-level Morey-Saint-Denis Rouge comes from two parcels: one in the lieu-dit Clos Solon, and the other in Les Crais, from vines averaging 70 years of age. Vinified in steel with 30% whole clusters and aged 18 months in oak—notably, with no new barrels—it emphasizes fruit and spice as per the house style, but this cuvée has put on welcome weight over the years, culminating in a nicely deep yet still nimble Morey, enticingly aromatic, with a satisfying acidity through the finish. In its youth, there are notes bordering on sauvage, which evolve into a fine aged leather character with some age.

The domaine’s villages-level Gevrey-Chambertin comes from 2.3 hectares worth of 50-year-old holdings split among four parcels scattered throughout the appellation: En Vosne, En Dérée, Es Murots, and Le Forneau. Like the Morey-Saint-Denis, this spends 18 months in previously used 228-liter barrels and is vinified with around 30% of its stems. Benoit strikes a wonderful balance between appellation-typical broad, savory fruit and fresh, lifted tannins here.

The estate owns a prime 0.71ha parcel of 70-year vines that cuts across the “Les Drazey” and “Les Bussieres” vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny, just below the 1er Cru “Les Sentiers”.  The finesse of this wine speaks of the Chambolle pedigree, though its ideal location and ancient vines produce a depth that elevates it to a level beyond what one would expect from a Villages.

One of the jewels in this domaine’s glimmering lineup, Lignier’s two hectares of this premier cru which sits just below grand cru Clos de la Roche comprise half of the entire surface of the vineyard. Benoit employs 30% whole clusters during fermentation and ages this cuvée in 20% new oak for 18 months. These 45-year-old vines yield a wine of classic Morey spice, with a complex and deep nose that loudly announces its pedigree as a grand-cru-flanking plot.

The domaine owns 0.41 hectares of 60-to-70-year-old vines in this remarkably situated premier cru, flanked on all four sides by grand cru territory: Latricières-Chambertin to the north, Charmes-Chambertin to the east, and Clos de la Roche to the south and west. Thickly textured, firmly mineral, and very long on the palate, this wears its 40% new oak—the same level as Benoit employs for the grand crus—effortlessly. Like all of its vintage counterparts, 30% whole clusters were included in the fermentation, and it is aged for 18 months in small barrels, approximately one-third of which are new. This formidable lieu-dit provides us with a sturdy wine with plenty of material, a relatively dark robe and a forceful structure.

Georges Lignier owns a significant 1.6-hectare portion of this 6.6-hectare grand cru, divided among two parcels—one 50 years old and one 70. Warmly spicy on the nose, with subtle mineral accents and deep red fruits, this offers large-scaled but vibrant and well-buffered tannins on its long and penetrating palate. (40% new oak.)

The domaine owns a mere tenth of a hectare of Pinot Noir planted in the early 1960s in this relatively large grand cru. This Charmes-Chambertin gives the impression of small-berried fruit, with a subtly mineral-inflected palate of taut tension and somewhat firm tannins; patience will be rewarded here. (50% new oak.)

The domaine owns four small parcels totaling 1.05 hectares in this hallowed grand cru, with vines averaging 55 years of age. The nose here is a maelstrom of Indian spice and site-typical salinity, notes of which carry through onto a surprisingly precise and driving palate of exceptional length. Like the Clos-Saint-Denis, its tannins are formidable but thoroughly coated in fruit, offering both early-drinking potential and lots of upside in the cellar. (40% new oak.)

The domaine owns a high-slope 0.28 parcel planted in 1920 in this legendary grand cru which straddles the border of Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. Compared to the riotousness of the Clos de la Roche, this Bonnes-Mares is aromatically finer, though no less spice-drenched. The palate is all about gentleness and grace, its ultra-concentrated old-vines fruit carried along on waves of silk. Benoit jokes that Bonnes-Mares can be “too perfect”—but there is truly nothing else like it in the entire Côte d’Or. (40% new oak.)