Joseph Dorbon
Wines
Vadans, Arbois
Arbois Blanc, Chardonnay, “Vieilles Vignes”
Aged for 2 years in small barrels that are not topped off, this is a classic example of Chardonnay from the Jura, very clean with a citrus-leaning nose. It is not especially nutty or wild and shows only a subtle influence of the voile--with only 2 years of aging, there not enough time for the veil to fully develop. The fruit is impressively compact, and the nose has a slightly bitter orange-peel note and flavors of white flowers and aromatic herbs. This wine leans medicinal and has the expressiveness of an artisanal vermouth. It is a truly pleasurable wine to drink now or lay down for a few years.
Arbois Blanc, “Cuvée des Moyne, Vieilles Vignes”
This is the principal white cuvée of the domaine, a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Savagnin that are co-fermented and aged together sous voile for thirty months in small barrels. The nose is clean and bright, with subtle hints of nuts and dried herbs. The fruit leans toward poached pear and orange peel, with an unbelievably fine, silky texture.
Arbois Blanc, Savagnin
This cuvée is aged for 6 years sous voile before being bottled—just three months short of the minimum requirement to be a Vin Jaune. It is incredibly concentrated and loaded with aromas of dried hay and roasted nuts, and it would not be an egregious error to mistake this wine for a Vin Jaune. Beyond the wild, earthy aromas is an elegant interplay of minerality and pure, concentrated fruit that gives this wine incredible length and grace. The combination of power, wildness, and elegance, makes this a wine that could only be a Savagnin from the Jura.
Arbois Rouge, Ploussard, “Vieilles Vignes”
An earthy but vibrant red with the classic faded rose color of this intriguing grape; from old vines, it offers seductive red cherry fruit which overlays a hint of the “sous bois”. Fermented with native yeast, aged in stainless steel for one year and bottled unfiltered.
Arbois Rouge, Trousseau, “Vieilles Vignes”
Dorbon produces only about 2,000 bottles of Trousseau annually, from a small parcel. Fermented and aged in stainless steel to keep the freshness of the Trousseau, it is typically bottled after nine months. The result is a Trousseau which is open and delicious with fresh, tart fruit, underlying notes of dried herbs and a light, tannic backbone. The color is an attractive pale red tinged with a slight orange hue. High-toned and bright, this wine could easily be confused for a red Burgundy from the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.
Arbois Rouge, “Les Bernardines, Vieilles Vignes”
“Les Bernardines” is a vineyard in Vadans named after the Bernardine order of Cistercian monks who stewarded the land during the Middle Ages, and Joseph owns Ploussard and Pinot Noir vines within its confines. The harvest, comprising around 3/4 Ploussard and 1/4 Pinot Noir, is co-fermented in stainless steel without temperature stabilization, and aged two full years in old Burgundy barrels. Fresh and lithe, “Les Bernardines” leads with Ploussard’s sappy red-cherry fruit, with the Pinot Noir contributing a certain suaveness of texture. The palate sees an extra boost of concentration from the 60+ year old vines, and the wine blends gentle structure with vivacious drinkability in very harmonious fashion.
Arbois Vin Jaune
Flagrantly exceeding the appellation’s six-years-and-three-months minimum, Dorbon releases his Vin Jaune only after a full ten years under the veil, and only in certain vintages. The result is an oceanic wine of seemingly impossible power, with raging acidity wed to luscious, salt-caked yellow fruits, and given additional complexity by a raw-almond character that stops short of overt oxidation.
Macvin du Jura
A classic Macvin made with 100% Chardonnay. Dorbon typically makes three to four barrels a year, selecting one for ageing a decade or more and bottling the remaining barrels after several years for this cuvée. There is a great deal of freshness in this Macvin, as well as a bright floral nose with notes of chamomile, white flowers and honey. Not excessively sweet, this Macvin has a beautiful medicinal quality that makes it the perfect end to any meal.
Macvin du Jura, “Hors d’Âge”
Made exclusively from old vines Chardonnay; Far and away the best Macvin we have ever tasted; aged 10 years in a single barrel; a sweet caramelized nose yet fresh and round on the palate with great acidity.