Rotgipfler, “Gumpoldskirchen”

In a similar spirit to Burgundy’s village-level wines, Stadlmann bottles a Rotgipfler from vineyards immediately surrounding the nearby town of Gumpoldskirchen. Like their regional-level wines, this ferments naturally in large, decades-old Viennese-oak casks, but it spends nearly an entire year in cask on its fine lees before being bottled—without fining and with a gentle non-sterile filtration. Both richer and more taut than the Rotgipfler Anning, this presents a stonier sense of minerality, its nearly invisible four grams per liter of residual sugar amplifying the palate’s intensity and elongating the finish.