Wines

This cuvée is sourced from vines the age of which is between 45 and 70 years. A wine of exceptional concentration for a village level appellation, this wine is always a true expression of the kimmeridgian soils that make Chablis so distinctive. Aged for thirty months before release, Defaix’s old vines Chablis is richly dense with a classic “pierre a fusil” bouquet and long mineral-infused finish.

The astute reader will notice the singular “Vaillon” instead of the more commonplace “Les Vaillons” on Defaix’s label. The boundaries of this vineyard were extended in 1976 to take advantage of its popularity in the market, but the Defaix family owns a prime parcel of old vines (45 years of age) in the original cru—the Vaillon. The steep 28-degree gradient and iron-rich soils of this southeast-facing site render a wine of spicy richness, and Danny’s is a real powerhouse. Showing both remarkable concentration and excellent acidity, this wine has a luscious quality that contrasts gently with the more chiseled crus in his lineup.

In fascinating contrast to “Vaillon”, Defaix’s “Côte de Lechet” is a master class in mineral precision. This remarkably steep site (a 45% gradient) with very poor soil produces a wine that Danny describes as embodying “the real, true mineral expression of Chablis.” Freshly blasted chalk dominates the nose, with notes of lemon, honey, and fresh herbs lurking underneath; still, this is a wine of minerality first and foremost. The family owns a 3.5-hectare parcel of 45-year-old vines in this distinctive cru, most of which are planted within a parcel known as the Clos des Moines.

Les Lys is a tiny five-hectare cru of which Defaix owns three and a half hectares, all in a southeast-facing section called Clos du Roi—effectively a monopole of the domaine. Its poor soils of pure Kimmeridgian limestone produce perhaps the most complete and distinctive wine in Defaix’s cellar. Combining some of the power of the “Vaillon” with the chalky intensity of the “Côte de Lechet,” “Les Lys” ratchets up the aromatic complexity of the previous two, yet comes across as pure and harmonious. The palate offers ample richness, yet a sense of tension keeps it from feeling opulent, and the chiseled finish offers a strong sensation of dry extract.

The smallest of Chablis` Grand Cru vineyards, `Les Grenouilles` conveys rich calcareous mineral elements, combined with intense harmonious fruit. Defaix is one of only five owners, with vines planted in 1960. This is a beautifully balanced Grand Cru with an intensely complex palate that lingers on the finish.

On a southeast slope of porous limestone soils, the grand cru of Blanchot produces a delicate, floral and forward Chablis. The wine is raised in the fashion of the domaine, which is to say, it spends an extended period of time on the lees (18-24 months) without the use of oak. It has a silky texture with elegant flavors of almond, honey and licorice and an attractive citrus and mineral finish.

On the plain above Chablis' swath of grand crus, Defaix owns less than a hectare of old Pinot Noir, and from it he produces a rare example of a red wine from this zone. Aged in tank with natural settling of lees like his Chablis, it offers bright, tangy fruits and a salty streak that speaks of its Kimmeridgian origins.