Wines

Aged for two years in large Slavonian casks, the Vitovska is a seamless and deeply stony wine. Its fruit character veers toward apricot and peach, yet in a subtle way—the limestone is doing the heavy lifting here, with the Vitovska serving as a mere vessel for the unfettered expression of rock. The wine finishes clean and long, with a sensation of almost mentholated coolness ringing on the palate long after swallowing. Whatever subtle tannins are present are melded beautifully with the palate-staining minerality, and the overall impression is one of freshness, complexity, and drive. A bold, uplifting, utterly delicious wine.

This special bottling was conceived by Benjamin Zidarich to reinforce the bond between his unique terroir in the Carso and the elévage in his cellar. Zidarich whole-heartedly believes in the profound effect of the irreplaceable limestone rock that gives birth to the singular expression of Vitovska. The “Kamen” is fermented and macerated for roughly 18 days in specially built stone vats made from the very rock that lies beneath his vineyards. After fermentation, the wine is moved to oak barrels for two years of aging. Broader on the palate, with a deeper mineral expression, this limited bottling truly expresses the deep potential of Vitovska.

In certain exceptional vintages, Benjamin vinifies his oldest vines of Vitovska separately, aging them for longer in cask and holding them in bottle before release. In keeping with its age, the 2009 “Collezione” is a bit less immediately forward and exuberant than the above, yet it expresses even more viscerally the stony power of its underlying terroir. Gentle in character yet extremely concentrated, all of its elements hang together just-so, and the broad, long palate features a fascinating interplay of chamomile, cinnamon, and menthol. It is a testament to Benjamin’s patience and pride—his dedication to revealing all the dimensions of this great and relatively unknown viticultural area—that he is just now releasing the 2009 version of this wine, and we are fortunate to have access to a mere 16 six-packs for the US market.

The Malvasia is the more gregarious, talkative, eager younger brother to the more inward and contemplative Vitovska, yet both express the powerfully stony essence of the Carso in their own delicious way. The wine presents notes of crunchy mango, white pepper, and lemon verbena, with a subtle honey undertone emerging on the driving, mineral-drenched finish. Even after a decade, the wine will offer amazing depth and freshness, proving that its relative youthful exuberance does not preclude an equally impressive age-ability.

This wine comes entirely from the Lehte parcel, planted to Zidarich’s oldest Malvasia Istriana vines. Chiseled and defined, this wine speaks clearly of the Carso and shares little in common with other Italian Malvasia wines. In fact, Malvasia Istriana does not belong to the larger Malvasia family and has an entirely seperate ampleogrphic history. A mix of piercing limestone chalk and fresh herbs, this wine is a delight at the table, whether with fish, white meats, or cheese.

This indigenous red grape variety has existed in the Carso since Roman times, and it is an addictively delicious, vibrant, exuberant, and light-on-its-feet counterpart to the strikingly mineral white wines of the area. Benjamin explained that Teran has the most anthocyanins of any red grape variety in the world, and its alcohol levels rarely broach 12%. There is a certain Barbera-like quality to the crunchy, earth-tinged red fruits and the bright, appetizing acid profile, yet there is more finesse and purity . Fresh herbs and red licorice on the palate add complexity, and the concentration and energy of this wine is surprising given its exceedingly modest alcohol level. Aged entirely in large Slavonian botti.

Merlot has a long history in this part of Friuli, and the variety can take on an incredibly distinctive, satisfying character in the right hands—tasting nothing like its distant cousins in the Medoc, nor like any of the multitude of more varietally marked New World iterations. Zidarich’s “Ruje” combines 80% Merlot and 20% Teran, and it is aged for four years in a combination of large botti and smaller barrels (all of which are well-used)—then for another two full years before it hits the market.  The 2010 was fascinating, with an intoxicating nose of savory spice, dried tobacco, dark fruits, and smoke. The still-energetic palate is supple and long, with a coiled mineral presence that rears its head from beneath the web of secondary complexity. As evidenced by a vertical Benjamin opened for us, this wine can go far longer in bottle as well.