Condrieu, “L’Arbuel”

Gérard’s precise, mineral-driven “L’Arbuel” combines tiny holdings in two vineyards: a 0.18-hectare sliver in high-altitude Corbery, a cool, west-facing site with soils of granite and muscovite; and a 0.32 parcel in Marmouzin, slightly downslope, planted also in granite and muscovite. In order to achieve maximum equilibrium in his Condrieu, Xavier harvests his Viognier in two passes about ten days apart; the first pass gives acidity, and the second gives fruit. He also employs a portion of the wine from the final pressing, which contributes midpalate richness and a touch of structure-providing bitterness. Aged for 18 months primarily in older barrels with a portion in steel, the resulting wine is nimble and fresh, balancing its Viognier-typical notes of peaches and cream with a sense of nervy poise.