Gavi Riserva, “Vigna Madonnina”

Representing less than 10% of their production, La Raia’s Gavi Riserva—one of only four examples of a Riserva in the entire zone—comes from 20-year-old vines planted in the chalky white soils of the southeast-facing Madonnina vineyard. Harvested 10 to 14 days later than the basic Gavi, it spends an entire year on its fine lees (compared to three months for the basic) in stainless steel before bottling, with an additional six months of bottle aging before being put up for sale. This is broad yet focused on the nose, with an intense Chablis-like chalkiness; the palate possesses concentration and cling, with the chalk echoing and carrying the flavors of apricot and apples through an impressively lengthy finish.