Oloroso, “La Bota 108”, “Bota NO”, Chiclana

The elemental, almost imposingly complex La Bota #108 comes from a single cask (“Bota NO” is a cellar designation meaning that the barrel should never be filled with new wine) of 90-year-old Sherry cared for by Chano Aragón in his ancient bodega Calle Olivo in Chiclana, situated 25 miles due south of Jerez de la Frontera. This museum-worthy artifact of a wine is bone-dry, bracingly acidic, and kaleidoscopic in its oxidative character, with tobacco leaf, dark-roast coffee, musky leather, and brass all stretching their arms up from the seething mosh pit of flavors. 22.5% alcohol; bottled October 2021; 1,200 bottles (375ml) produced.