Pinot Gris, “Comme un Rouge”, “Engelberg Grand Cru”

It is one thing to play with varietals from a lesser site; to convert a portion of grand cru fruit in such a manner requires a more substantial level of commitment. With three weeks of skin contact, the “Comme un Rouge” (“like a red”) shows up Pinot Gris for the dark-skinned “white” grape it is so often produced and marketed as. Looking more like a dark rosé in the glass, this possesses an elemental sense of limestone, with notes of dates, macerated cherries, and exotic botanicals, as well as a clinging and driving finish of stunning purity. Jean-Marie aged this for one year in used Burgundy barrels purchased from his old classmate and friend Régis Forey, and added no sulfur at all during the élévage. Only 30 cases imported.