Austria’s easternmost wine region
Burgenland is situated south of Niederösterreich and north of Steiermark, and borders Hungary along its entire eastern flank. Its 28% share of Austria’s vineyard area produces the country’s best and most respected red wines, from vineyards whose proximity to Hungary’s warm Pannonian plains ensures proper ripening for the indigenous Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt.
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Early on, future Anjou superstar Thibaud Boudidgnon was the full-time cellarmaster for Beguinot, and while he has long since moved on to fully pursue his own wines, we astonishingly have a handful of cases in our warehouse of a Savennieres Thibaud produced during his stint at Château Soucherie.
Delphine’s wines capture the best qualities of great Aube Champagne, achieving an extraordinary balance of delicacy and power. Sleekly elegant yet with pronounced musculature, they wear their absence of dosage not as austerity but as mineral directness, and their acidity is clean and pert without being aggressive.
Delétraz possesses a golden combination of intellect, sensitivity, and humility, and he is blessed with holdings in one of Switzerland’s most fascinating cantons: the commune of Fully, in the Valais’ westernmost reaches. Fully represents the only gneiss mother-rock to be found in the country, and its sandy, acidic topsoil contains little clay and no limestone. Furthermore, its eye-poppingly vertiginous slopes prevent the possibility of any type of mechanization—thus making chemical-free farming like Alexandre practices a Herculean feat of labor.
When we began working with Olivier Giroux and his Domaine Clos des Rocs almost a decade ago, we knew we had a future star on our hands. His home appellation of Pouilly-Loché may remain little known, but Olivier’s hugely expressive single-site bottlings stand comfortably alongside any white Burgundies from those pricier zip codes to the north. Furthermore, rather than hewing to the modish hyper-reductivity mold, Olivier’s wines are effusive, reveling in their Maconnais lusciousness while simultaneously delivering a frank and profound minerality.
The ongoing renaissance of the Beaujolais has been a joy to behold. As more and more growers have adopted better farming practices, more thoughtful approaches to vinification, and an increased emphasis on site-specific bottlings, the immense potential of these bucolic hillsides has been unlocked to an unprecedented extent. At the forefront of this movement is Anita Kuhnel, a former professional cyclist who launched her eponymous domaine with the 2015 vintage.
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