Wines

Nicoletta Bocca is known as a maverick for her ultra-long aged Langhe cuvées, among the finest in the entire region. “Valdibà” is her youthful expression of the Dogliani DOCG, made all in steel cuve, which shows in the fresh brightness of the wine. Nicoletta considers this to be classical Dolcetto, striking all of the notes one would expect from the variety, with a confident tannic backbone. From southeast and northwest-facing vines in the Barracone and San Fereolo vineyards in the Valdibà subsection of Dogliani. 13,000 bottles produced.

The most important wine of the estate, the Dolcetto for the top wine is sourced from parcels found in prime positions, as well as the oldest vines of the estate.  The 7-year wait from harvest to release reflects the importance of the “San Fereolo” to Nicoletta, who carefully tends the wine through its 3 years in large barrel before a 3-4 year hibernation in the bottle cellar.  Our spring 2015 tasting of each vintage from 2001 to 2008 revealed a consistent vein of dense, warm fruit, which spoke of the Langhe source.  Fresh mineral notes, mint, licorice and savory elements permeated each expression, while a lively freshness was alive in every wine, including the 14-year old 2001 vintage.

The vineyard’s high-altitude position (600m) reveals itself in a lifted, invigoratingly pure nose of bright red fruits and sun-kissed stones. Whereas much Dolcetto is merely fruity and floral, an earth-tinged savory streak gives “Vigne Dolci” an extra aromatic dimension, and Nicoletta’s hands-off approach to the fermentation is evident in just the barest hint of volatility which lifts rather than dominates. Rocca Ciglie’s soils are light and sandy giving an energetic and racy character. There are honest and snappy Dolcetto tannins, to be sure, but the overall impression is one of lift and purity. The wine is aged in stainless steel thereby allowing the site’s exuberant personality to flourish.

1593 refers to the date of the first written documentation of Dolcetto in the archives of Dogliani. It’s a fitting title, since Nicoletta Bocca has made it her life’s work to reveal this grape’s profound connection to her special zone and its proud status among the most expressive and age-worthy wines in the Piedmonte. Made from her best and oldest parcels only in the best vintages, this wine results from grapes sourced from “Cerri Sottani”, a sub-zone of Valdibà. Bocca utilizes long aging to maximum effect, letting the wine rest for 6 years in 15HL and 10HL barrels before being racked into stainless steel for further aging.  After time in bottle, this wine is released more than 10 years after the harvest. Only 1,800 bottles are produced.

While much of the Piemonte eagerly pushes the greatest wines to market as soon as they are in bottle, “Austri” is one of two cuvées from San Fereolo that offer a patient alternative. A study in terroir, cépage, and evolution, we were stunned by the beautiful consistency when we first tasted through a vertical of this wine. Generally 95% Barbera and 5% Nebbiolo, this ranks among the greatest expressions of Barbera we have experienced.  Nicoletta treats the wine with a high degree of respect, allowing it to evolve through 3 years of élevage in large, neutral oak, followed by another 3 to 4 years in bottle.

While Dolcetto rules the estate, we are offered a glimpse of how the estate’s style would translate to its northern Barolo neighbor through this wine.  Half of the fruit comes from a friend’s prime holding in Serralunga d’Alba, while the balance is sourced from an estate parcel in Dogliani.  The long 30-day maceration in large vat allows for all of the character of the terroir to present itself, and the result is a wine of power and depth.

After her source vineyard for the beloved skin-contact white “Coste di Riavolo” suffered excessively from Flavescenza Dorata and had to be pulled up, Nicoletta planted Riesling and Gewurztraminer, two varieties she loves very much, in the upper reaches of the Rocca Ciglie vineyard in Dogliani at 650 meters altitude. The resultant “Coste di Valanche” comprises 90% Riesling and 10% Gewurztraminer, fermented spontaneously and macerated on its skins for five days. This is a somewhat briefer period of contact than she employed for the Coste di Riavolo, and, combined with the elegance-enhancing character of the new source vineyard, the wine is brighter, finer, and slightly more delicate than its predecessor.

La Lupa is a seriously made rose which eschews the dominant "light at all costs" paradigm and possesses the vinosity and depth of real wine. Produced from a saignee of Dolcetto (with a small amount of Gewurztraminer), it pours a deep, glowing, orange-y pink; the nose is spice-drenched and soaring, but with plump fruit lurking; and the palate shows a touch of structure with ample richness and a current of energy that pulses through all her wines.