Chasselas, “Cuvée des Immortels”, “Clos du Crosex Grillé”, Aigle Grand Cru, Chablais, Vaud

The Clos du Crosex Grillé (“grillé” referring to the way the sun roasts this extreme slope) encompasses 2.5 hectares of terraces planted mostly to Chasselas, within the grand cru of Aigle at 450 to 500 meters altitude. Philippe raises the “Cuvée des Immortels” on its fine lees for a year in a combination of stainless steel and specially designed amphora, bottling it in the old Swiss standard-sized bottle of 700 milliliters (which allows for precisely 2,000 units to be bottled from a 35-hectoliter cask). It displays intense, penetrating focus on the palate, with a strong saline edge and a great concentration. Though ample in its acidity, its tension is driven as much by a through-line of appetizing bitterness as by an impression of brightness—a balancing act which Chasselas at its finest performs beautifully.